In the Spotlight: Marco Bicego Jewelry
Marco Bicego’s jewelry is a beautiful piece of modern Italian history. The son of a goldsmith, fine jewelry crafting is in his blood. From an early age, his passion for gold jewelry grew, and in time he created a new business which has prospered since 1958. Still inspired by and connected to Italian fashion and Venetian creativity, every single piece of Marco Bicego jewelry remains hand-crafted in the company’s new workshop located in Trissino, just northwest of Venice. Very seldom will you find a fine jewelry line that parallels Marco Bicego’s hand craftsmanship, quality assurance, and use of traditional tools and techniques. Without outsourcing a single step, from design and model-making, to tool-making and goldsmithing, to stone selection, setting, and engraving, every component of the Marco Bicego jewelry creation process is touched by skilled Italian hands.
Lovers of Marco Bicego jewelry will tell you that the three components that make his work so special are:
1) his handling of traditional, manual engraving tools
2) his use of brilliantly colored gemstones, and
3) his fantastic, original, hand-twisted coil technique.
TRADITIONAL TOOLS & TECHNIQUE
We know that legacy is important to Marco Bicego, but why would a modern company want to continue using ancient tools to accomplish metalwork? Well, traditional techniques lead to magnificent, memorable results. Marco Bicego specifically uses the “bulino,” which is a hand tool that can be used to create super fine textural lines. This tool is basically a small knife attached to a wooden handle, which fits in the palm. By using differently shaped tips, variations in line can be achieved. It takes a good deal of muscle and coordination to successfully hand-engrave gold, and etching masters train for years before attempting large and valuable projects. Even with experience, engraving jewelry still takes hours of toil.
For Marco Bicego, the time that it takes to hand-engrave gold is a commitment to his practice. He incorporates etching into many of his most beloved collections, including the Lunaria, Siviglia, Murano, Jaipur Link, Africa, and Delicati. The 5-banded Jaipur Link Diamond Ring is one stunning example, including three etched 18k gold bands, plus two lined with pave diamonds. Pieces from the Lunaria and Africa collections demonstrate an accomplished handling of various shapes and sizes of gold, like the Lunaria Double Wave 36” necklace in 18k yellow gold, or the 18k yellow gold Graduated Africa Necklace. The texture on the surface of these organic shapes is just luscious, and the wearer can truly feel the hand-made quality of every bead.
Marco Bicego also incorporates sparkling gemstones into a many of his designs. The graceful Paradise collection features semi-precious gemstones layered on 18k chains, like candy drops in purple, shades of pink, light green and blue, yellow and orange. This signature Bicego look is elegant in both long or short necklaces, dangling drop earrings, and multi-strand bracelets. More bold than the flirty Paradise collection, Jaipur collection stones are circular, and framed and interspersed with 18k gold etched disks: see some of our favorite bracelets, earrings, rings, and more. Marco Bicego takes pride and pleasure in selecting each stone used for these glimmering collections.
The hand-twisted coil is another Marco Bicego original and favorite, found in the Marrakech, Goa, Cairo, and Masai collections. Simple jewelry like these Marrakech bracelets, featuring three diamonds and available in white or yellow gold, become striking and unique through this undulating technique.
What’s the secret? We’ll clue you in. This exclusive style incorporates two layers. A hidden central coil is wrapped in 18k gold “thread,” which then can be twisted and sculpted into many different forms. The thread may be yellow, white, or rose gold, and many of Bicego’s twisted styles incorporate multiple strands, adding extra surprise—like this 18k yellow and white gold Masai Ring, or this 18k yellow gold three strand Cairo Necklace.
Though each collection is clearly unique, they are also carefully designed to be able to be worn together. We love Marco Bicego’s attention to detail, and the fact that his talents speak a diverse yet connected language. It’s clear that thanks to his innovative techniques, use of fine materials, and original design aesthetic, Marco Bicego’s jewelry is a cut above. And, as a family-owned business, ourselves for 120 years, we at Lux Bond & Green truly appreciate the Marco Bicego reverence for family roots and tradition. We are lucky to call Marco a friend with his many visits to our stores cultivating our partnership and love for beautiful jewelry. Mix and match from the wide range of luxurious Marco Bicego jewelry collections online, or at Lux Bond & Green’s West Hartford, Westport, or Wellesley stores.