The Ultimate Guide to Diamond Cutting

When shopping for the diamond of your dreams, the first thing you might notice is its sparkle. But what really gives a diamond its dazzling brilliance? The answer lies in the diamond's cut — one of the most critical factors influencing a diamond’s beauty and value.

Understanding different diamond cuts is essential for anyone designing a custom engagement ring, selecting a meaningful gift, or investing in a timeless piece of jewelry. At Lux Bond & Green, we pride ourselves on helping clients choose the perfect diamond. Whether you are designing your own unique piece or browsing our designer collections, this guide will help you explore the diamond cut types available today

What is Diamond Cut, and Why Does It Matter?

Although a diamond's cut and shape can seem similar on the surface, they are distinct characteristics.

Shape refers to the overall form of the diamond (e.g., Round, Oval, Pear, Cushion), while cut refers to how well a diamond’s facets are crafted by an expert diamond cutter to interact with light. The cut affects a diamond’s brilliance (white light reflection), fire (colored light dispersion), and scintillation (sparkle when moved).

A well-cut diamond reflects light with a transcendent glow, creating that sought-after sparkle. Conversely, a poorly cut diamond can look dull, even with high clarity and color grades. Grading reports—even those with an excellent cut grades—often don't tell the full story. Pieces of paper are not as effective as looking at a diamond with your own eyes.

While different, diamond shapes and cuts are closely related. For instance, shapes like an Oval or Heart that are not Round, require what’s called a Fancy cut grade, often a variation of the Brilliant cut called a “Modified Brilliant cut.”

To learn more about how a diamond cut impacts overall value and appearance, visit our comprehensive Diamond Buying Guide.

The Different Types of Diamond Cuts

Ready to find the perfect shape for you? Let's explore some of today's most popular diamond cut types.

Round Brilliant

If you're seeking an engagement ring with a classic aesthetic, consider selecting a Round Brilliant cut. The Round Brilliant is the most iconic and popular choice among different diamond cuts because of its captivating sparkle. It’s designed for maximum dazzle with 58 perfectly arranged facets. Its physics give it the opportunity to sparkle more than any other shape.

Fancy Cuts

Fancy cuts refer to shapes for diamonds other than round. Many use a modified version of the brilliant cut style to maintain brilliance in a non-round shape.

Modified Brilliant Cuts

Modified Brilliant cuts take the faceting pattern of the Round Brilliant and adapt it to different shapes. These cuts balance brilliance with a more unique or elongated silhouette.

Examples of Modified Brilliant cuts:

• Oval – Blends the brilliance of the Round cut with an elongated shape that can make fingers look slender and the diamond appear larger than its carat weight suggests.
• Pear – Also called a teardrop shape, this cut combines the Round and Marquise cuts for a distinctive, feminine look.
• Marquise – Boat-shaped and dramatic, this cut maximizes perceived size and is ideal for bold, elegant styles.
• Heart – A romantic shape that requires precise symmetry and expert craftsmanship.
• Cushion – With soft edges and a pillow-like silhouette, the Cushion cut offers vintage charm and excellent light dispersion.

Step cuts

Step cuts use long, rectangular facets that resemble steps, emphasizing clarity and elegance rather than sparkle.

Examples of Step cuts:

• Emerald – Known for its hall-of-mirrors effect, this rectangular cut showcases long lines and clean symmetry, emphasizing clarity and sophistication.
• Asscher – A square variant of the Emerald cut with deeply layered step facets, offering a vintage Art Deco flair.

Mixed cuts

Mixed cuts combine elements of brilliant and step cutting styles, offering a blend of sparkle and depth.

Examples of Mixed cuts:

• Radiant – This hybrid has the shape of an Emerald cut but with the brilliance of a Round, thanks to its 70 light-catching facets.
• Princess – A modern, square-shaped diamond with sharp corners and a brilliant-style faceting pattern for maximum sparkle.

Rose cut

A historic cut dating back to the 16th century, the Rose cut features a flat bottom and a domed top covered in triangular facets. It has a soft, antique shimmer and is beloved in vintage and bohemian styles.

Vintage cuts

Vintage diamond cuts refer to older cutting styles popular in antique jewelry. These include the Old Mine cut and Old European cut, which were precursors to today’s modern Round Brilliant. While less sparkly, vintage cuts offer character, romance, and historical appeal.

Grading: How Diamond Cuts Are Evaluated

Diamond cut quality is not just a matter of appearance — it’s scientifically graded. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a grading system that assesses how well a diamond’s facets are proportioned and polished.

GIA cut Grading Criteria Include:

• Brightness – Total light reflected from a diamond.
• Fire – How well the diamond disperses light into rainbow colors.'
• Scintillation – Sparkle when the diamond moves.
• Proportions – Angles and symmetry of the cut.
• Polish and Symmetry – Smoothness and alignment of facets.

Diamonds are graded from Excellent to Poor based on these criteria.

Which Diamond Shape is Best for You?

When it comes to finding the best diamond shape, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer — it’s about discovering the diamond that speaks to your heart. Choosing between the different diamond shapes ultimately comes down to personal taste and style. Some are captivated by the timeless brilliance of the Round Brilliant cut, while others are drawn to what they believe fits their personality, or the vintage charm of the Emerald or Asscher cuts.

Selecting the right diamond shape is an exciting and meaningful journey. At Lux Bond & Green, our experienced jewelry specialists are here to guide you through every step, whether you're browsing, customizing, or investing in a one-of-a-kind piece. With expert guidance and a trusted jeweler by your side, you can find a diamond that will captivate for a lifetime.

Start your journey with Lux Bond & Green — visit us in Connecticut or Massachusetts and begin finding your perfect piece today!